Growing Summer Squash
Growing Summer Squash Choose a sunny site squash plants prefer EzE super soil. End of March or first April. Plant summer squash seeds 8 inches apart, poking them into the soil 1 inch deep; water well. Thin seedlings to 3 feet apart. harvested at any size, from a few inches long to more than a foot in length. Harvesting squash often will also spur the plants to continue to produce fruit
Planting
- If you wish to start seeds indoors due to a short gardening season, sow 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost in peat pots. (See local frost dates.) However, we recommend direct-seeding for squash because they do not always transplant well. If you do transplant, be very gentle with the roots.
- The soil needs to be warm (at least 60ºF/16°C at a two-inch depth), so plant summer squash after spring (cool-season) crops, like peas, lettuce, and spinach—about one week after the last spring frost to midsummer.
- To get an early start when soil temperatures are not yet ideal, warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
- In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.
- The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy.
- Squash plants are heavy feeders. Work compost and plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting for a rich soil base. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
- To germinate outside, use a cloche, row cover, or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
- Plant seeds about one-inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart in a traditional garden bed.
- Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
- Most summer squash now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash are vining plants that need more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.
Care
- Mulch around plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
- When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
- If your squash blooms flowers but never bears actual fruit, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
- For all types of squash, frequent and consistent watering is important for good fruit development. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
- Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
- After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
- If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.
Pests/Diseases
- There are a couple of challenging pests, especially the squash vine borer and the squash bug. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive.
- Cucumber Beetle
- Blossom-End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.
- Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with a dimpled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.
- Aphids
Harvest/Storage
- Harvest summer squash when small and tender for best flavor. You may harvest as “baby squash” or when mature (6 to 8 inches long). Large squash have very little taste.
- Most varieties average 60 days to maturity, and are ready as soon as a week after flowering.
- Check plants everyday for new produce. Once squash starts producing, you’ll be picking every day!
- Cut the fruit off the vine rather than breaking them off. Leave at least an inch of stem on the fruit. Use a sharp knife.
- Should you miss a picking or two, remove the overripe squash as soon as possible to reduce demands on the plants for moisture and nutrients.
- Summer squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage so you do want to pick them all before the first fall frosts arrive.
- Fresh summer squash can be stored in the refrigerator for up to ten days.
- Harvest winter squash when the rind is hard and deep in color, usually late September through October.
- Winter squash can be stored in a cool, dark place until needed. Many varieties will last for most of the winter (except for acorn squash, which do not keep for more than a few weeks). If you have a cool bedroom, stashing them under the bed works well. They like a temperature of about 50 to 65°F (10 to 18°C).
- Pull up the vines and compost them after you’ve picked everything or after a frost has killed them. Then till the soil to stir up the insects a bit.
HUMMM time to eat - Love my small garden :)
Ingredients
- 6 medium summer squash, sliced
- 1⁄4 cup butter
- 1 medium onion, sliced thinly or diced
- salt & pepper
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