Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings & from seed- I will go picking - but if want to try growing -- This is the best way.. Because when picking in wild a lot of other animals LOVE BlackBerry so you may have learn to run or grow your own. Hope this helps: Speciality Farms is now working with Uncle Jim's Worm Farm

Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings & from seed-
 I will go picking - but if want to try growing -- This is the best way.. Because when picking in wild   a lot of other animals LOVE BlackBerry so you may have learn to run or grow your own.

Hope this helps:

 Speciality Farms  is now working with  Uncle Jim's Worm Farm

 

Blackberries are hardy plants that are relatively easy to grow. However, growing from seed won't produce berries the first year. The seeds require stratification the first year and will grow the second year.

Step 1

Place damp peat moss in a sandwich bag and put seeds in the peat moss. Close this and put it in your refrigerator for 3 to 5 months. The temperature must be between 33 to 35 degrees F to stratify the seeds. The seeds should start to open up in the cold.

Step 2

Plant the seeds in a flower pot with stones or broken terra cotta in the bottom for drainage. Use a soil made for fruit and mix it with compost. Keep the seeds moist until they start to sprout. Mix in more compost about every month and water when soil starts to feel dry.

Step 3

Plant outside the next spring. Place the plants in full sun to partial shade in well-draining soil. Place a trellis behind the plants to help hold up their canes. Dig out the hole large enough so as to not bend the roots and mix soil with compost before planting the seedling. Plant the plants 2 feet apart with rows up to 7 feet apart. Keep mulch on top of the soil around the plants to keep out weeds and hold in moisture.

Step 4

Keep canes trimmed to about 7 feet. In the second year, trim the canes that have produced berries to the ground and cut off suckers that have grown outside the rows.

Step 5

Pick berries when they turn dark red or purple in color. Pick up any berries that fall to the ground.

Propagating Blackberries through Suckers & Tip Layering Suckers are one of the easiest ways to root blackberry plants. Suckers can be removed from the parent plant and then replanted elsewhere. Tip layering is another method that can be used for blackberry propagation. This works well for trailing types and when only a few plants are needed. Tip layering usually takes place in late summer/early fall. The young shoots are simply bent over to the ground and then covered with a few inches of soil. This is then left throughout fall and winter. By spring there should be enough root formation to cut the plants away from the parent and replant elsewhere.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/blackberries/propagating-blackberries-cuttings.htm

Home › Edible Gardens › Fruits › Blackberries Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings Blackberries By: Nikki Tilley, Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden Printer Friendly Version Image by .:[ Melissa ]:. By Nikki Tilley (Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden) Propagating blackberries is easy. These plants can be propagated by cuttings (root and stem), suckers, and tip layering. Regardless of the method used for rooting blackberries, the plant will characteristically resemble that of the parent variety, especially as far as thorns are concerned (i.e. thornless types will not have thorns and vice versa). Growing Blackberries from Cuttings Blackberries can be propagated through leafy stem cuttings as well as root cuttings. If you want to propagate lots of plants, leafy stem cuttings are probably the best way to go. This is usually accomplished while the cane is still firm and succulent. You’ll want to take about 4-6 inches of the cane stems. These should be placed in a moist peat/sand mix, sticking them in a couple inches deep. Note: Rooting hormone can be used but is not necessary. Mist well and put them in a shady location. Within three to four weeks, roots should begin to develop. More often root cuttings are taken for blackberry propagation. These cuttings, which are usually anywhere from 3-6 inches long, are taken in fall during dormancy. They usually require about a three-week cold storage period, especially plants having larger roots. Straight cuts should be made nearest the crown with an angled cut made further away. Once the cuttings have been taken, they’re usually bundled together (with similar cuts end to end) and then cold stored at about 40 degrees F. (4 C.) outdoors in a dry area or in the refrigerator. After this cold period, like stem cuttings, they are placed in a moist peat and sand mix—about 2-3 inches apart with straight ends inserted a couple inches into soil. With small-rooted cuttings, only small 2-inch sections are taken. These are placed horizontally over the moist peat/sand mix and then lightly covered. It is then covered in clear plastic and placed in a shady location until new shoots appear. Once they’re rooted, all the cuttings can be planted into the garden. Propagating Blackberries through Suckers & Tip Layering Suckers are one of the easiest ways to root blackberry plants. Suckers can be removed from the parent plant and then replanted elsewhere. Tip layering is another method that can be used for blackberry propagation. This works well for trailing types and when only a few plants are needed. Tip layering usually takes place in late summer/early fall. The young shoots are simply bent over to the ground and then covered with a few inches of soil. This is then left throughout fall and winter. By spring there should be enough root formation to cut the plants away from the parent and replant elsewhere.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/blackberries/propagating-blackberries-cuttings.htm

Home › Edible Gardens › Fruits › Blackberries Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings Blackberries By: Nikki Tilley, Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden Printer Friendly Version Image by .:[ Melissa ]:. By Nikki Tilley (Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden) Propagating blackberries is easy. These plants can be propagated by cuttings (root and stem), suckers, and tip layering. Regardless of the method used for rooting blackberries, the plant will characteristically resemble that of the parent variety, especially as far as thorns are concerned (i.e. thornless types will not have thorns and vice versa). Growing Blackberries from Cuttings Blackberries can be propagated through leafy stem cuttings as well as root cuttings. If you want to propagate lots of plants, leafy stem cuttings are probably the best way to go. This is usually accomplished while the cane is still firm and succulent. You’ll want to take about 4-6 inches of the cane stems. These should be placed in a moist peat/sand mix, sticking them in a couple inches deep. Note: Rooting hormone can be used but is not necessary. Mist well and put them in a shady location. Within three to four weeks, roots should begin to develop. More often root cuttings are taken for blackberry propagation. These cuttings, which are usually anywhere from 3-6 inches long, are taken in fall during dormancy. They usually require about a three-week cold storage period, especially plants having larger roots. Straight cuts should be made nearest the crown with an angled cut made further away. Once the cuttings have been taken, they’re usually bundled together (with similar cuts end to end) and then cold stored at about 40 degrees F. (4 C.) outdoors in a dry area or in the refrigerator. After this cold period, like stem cuttings, they are placed in a moist peat and sand mix—about 2-3 inches apart with straight ends inserted a couple inches into soil. With small-rooted cuttings, only small 2-inch sections are taken. These are placed horizontally over the moist peat/sand mix and then lightly covered. It is then covered in clear plastic and placed in a shady location until new shoots appear. Once they’re rooted, all the cuttings can be planted into the garden. Propagating Blackberries through Suckers & Tip Layering Suckers are one of the easiest ways to root blackberry plants. Suckers can be removed from the parent plant and then replanted elsewhere. Tip layering is another method that can be used for blackberry propagation. This works well for trailing types and when only a few plants are needed. Tip layering usually takes place in late summer/early fall. The young shoots are simply bent over to the ground and then covered with a few inches of soil. This is then left throughout fall and winter. By spring there should be enough root formation to cut the plants away from the parent and replant elsewhere.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/blackberries/propagating-blackberries-cuttings.htm

•  Quart-sized nursery pots or other similar containers - 4" pots like these will do the trick.
• Bypass pruners - The Felco F-2 is the industry standard, but a Corona will work just as well at half the price.
• Soulless potting medium - ProMix is generally what you'll find in professional nurseries.

1. Fill your pots with a soil-free mix.

Many people will recommend many different potting mixes (I've always had great results with ProMix) but the main thing to look for is a soil-free growing medium, because this will minimize the changes for disease or unwanted fungal growth.
Your mix will likely be some combination of peat moss, coconut coir, vermiculite, perlite, and/or pine bark. Don't stress too much about the overall formula! Ask someone at your local gardening supply store if you're feeling overwhelmed by the option.
Fill the quart-sized pots to the top, loosely – don’t pack it down. You’ll want to have these ready to go before you start making your cuttings so that you will be able to get the new plants in as quickly as possible after pruning.

2. Prune the cane.

What you’re looking for here is a healthy primocane – that is, a new cane growing this season. Though brambles are perennials (their roots will continue to send up new canes year after year), each individual cane functions as a biennial, which means that it grows and develops in its first year, then flowers and dies off in its second year. Floricanes are the second-year shoots that yield berries.
Make your cut as cleanly and precisely as possible - Felco bypass pruners really are indispensable for this task.

3. Cut the cane into pieces and prep the stem.

 The ideal cutting is about 4-6”, but this doesn’t have to be too precise. My pruning shears are about 7” long so I use those to get a rough measurement.At the base of your clone, you'll want to cut the stem as close as possible underneath a bud, because this will stimulate new root growth. Plan to stick two buds underground and keep another two or three above soil level.In my example here, I cut a small primocane from  plants that was long enough to make two new plants.Once your stem looks good, you can optionally take a knife and gently scrape along the bottom inch.  This is known as "scarring." Try some this way, and try some without and see works best for you.  GETS THESES CUTTINGS IN WATER AS FAST AS YOU CAN -Peace EzE



   4. Stick the cuttings into the pots, water thoroughly and keep damp.Seriously, that's all there is to it! People often recommend using 4. Stick the cuttings into the pots, water thoroughly and keep damp.Seriously, that's all there is to it!

I recommend using rooting hormone, and while it does probably improve your success rate a bit,

 
“Hardening off” is the process of moving plants outdoors for a portion of the day to gradually introduce them to the direct sunlight, dry air, and cold nights. ... Harden off gradually, so that seedlings become accustomed to strong sunlight, cool nights and less-frequent watering over a 7-10 day period.

If your seedlings show signs of wilting, give them a light sprinkle of water. The entire process of hardening off will probably take about a week, depending on temperatures and conditions in your area. During this time, your plants are getting thicker and sturdier, better able to adapt to summertime extremes
 

 Great Example:

 Everyone wants Tomatoes in the garden

 

Steps for Hardening Off Tomatoes

1. Start slowly. For the first day, set plants outside in the shade, next to the house, or in a protected area for an hour or two. ...
2. Raise exposure. ...
3. Monitor seedlings. ...
4. Finally, leave tomatoes out overnight.

Have fun go visit

I AM the creator of My Reality - E     Click here takes U HOME